Monday, May 26, 2008

Laodicea and Aphrodisias

Wednesday 21 May 2008

Laodicea is a sun-baked site with no shade, located in the valley below Pamukkale. Recently, archaeologists from the University of Denizli have uncovered a colonnaded road. But the ruins of Laodicea are similar to many other sites and our group latches onto the living: a little owl sitting on a column watching us with wide eyes, the site mongrel and a giant dandelion. Some workmen are clearing grasses from the site with sickles, just like ones from Roman times.

This was the site of one of the churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation. God, speaking through his prophet John, says ‘Because you are lukewarm, and neither hot nor cold, I am about to spit you out of my mouth.’ This is fitting because by the time the hot water from Hierapolis/Pamukkale got down here, it was only lukewarm. God also says through his prophet: ‘I counsel you to buy white garments…’ This region, near modern Denizli, used to be famous for woolen garments and is now famous for cotton. Finally this is the church to which God says: ‘Behold, I stand at the door and knock. If anyone hears my voice and opens the door I will come in to him and dine with him…’ Rev 3:20

We leave Laodicea and drive through Denizli. When I stayed here fifteen years ago, it was a charming if scruffy town, despite its open sewers. I remember a bread seller coming by with a tray of warm rolls balanced on his head. Now it is a big ugly sprawling town that takes us ten minutes to drive through.

We drive on towards Aphrodisias. It was a large town off the main roads and it therefore enjoyed some safety. The land here is green and fertile, with vineyards, olive groves and pomegranates. Some of the houses have red-tiled roofs and you could easily be in Tuscany. In a field I see a farmer with his big three-pronged rake resting over his shoulder as he goes home for siesta.

It is the beginning of National Tourism Day and some schoolchildren have come in traditional clothes to do a dance. The girls pose for some tourists and other fans.



The famous Turkish archaeologist Kenan Erim spent 30 years of his life excavating here and his grave is in a patch of green near an impressive tetrapylon gate.

In the Museum I find a wonderful character. He is Flavius Palmatus, a governor of the province of Asia. He has effeminate curly hair and a look of great disapproval on his face, as if he had just smelled a bad smell and was trying to puzzle out what caused it. He is four centuries too late for my story but I can use his face for one of my minor characters.

I remember the last time I came to Aphrodisias. We got a taxi to drive us and when we came back out of the site our driver was lying on the back seat in the shade of a tree. As we got closer we saw his sightless eyes staring up into the leaves. He was dead! But no, it turned out he was one of those rare people who sleep with their eyes open. I used that idea in my fifth book, The Dolphins of Laurentum, when Lupus goes to the baths to hire a killer and finds the bath attendant apparently dead.

We go to lunch at a restaurant called Anatolia. I buy a little clay bird whistle from a lady who lives in a tree house. I tip a man whose parrot dances to the tune of his mandolin. Best of all are the loos. You go through a bead curtain into a room with a skylight above a tiny lush patch of green. Coming out of the dim cubicle into the cook green brightness of this little garden courtyard must have been very like living in a small Pompeian townhouse. Only without the flushing cisterns, of course. Despite the fact that it caters for busloads of tourists we have one of the best meals here. This is one of the highlights of the trip for me.

We drive on towards the coast, through fertile undulating hills. We pass an olive oil factory, testimony to the groves and groves of olives here. But we also pass pomegranate, fig and peach. I’m not sure what the crops in the fields are, but my faithful Blue Guide says ‘the Meander Valley has long been famous for the production of liquorice from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra [lit. ‘smooth sweet root’] a hardy shrub which grows wild here and on the slopes of the surrounding hills.’ Maybe Floppy can give up mastic gum in favour of liquorice root.

Around 4.00 in the afternoon we stop at the Turkmen carpet factory near Selçuk, which is the modern town near Ephesus. My favourite bit is seeing some of the natural dyes that were used and a kind of Kurdish tent they have pitched behind the sales room.


Finally we arrive at our final stopping point on this tour, the Korumar hotel in Kusadasi. It is very big but beautiful, especially if you are blessed with a sea view.

PMD

Thursday 22 May 2008

Today we’re visiting three ancient sites: Priene, Miletus and Didyma. On the excursions board in Kusadasi they call this PMD. *hee*

We set out fairly early, heading south along the winding coastal road with the blue sea on the right. This is the reverse route Flavia and her friends will take when they go from Halicarnassus to Ephesus. There is a row of charcoal-sellers beside the road, something I have never seen before. The hills are clothed with pine, gorse, grasses, red poppies and silver-green olive trees. Straight ahead is a dramatic range of mountains, the Taurus range. Flavia et al will have to cross that from Halicarnassus.

We pass a horse standing in a river up to the knees of his forlegs; he’s drinking water and tearing the lush grasses there. Two shaggy brown goats are tied to stakes by the roadside.

Priene lies at the end of a spur of smaller hills. It’s up in the hills, away from the malarial river plain, and there are pine trees everywhere. It has a lovely little theatre, a bouleterion and two lofty columns marking the Temple of Athena. There is a lovely cool breeze up here among the scented pines, and birdsong everywhere. No wonder it’s many people’s favourite site.

Now we’re going down into the Meander valley. We get the word meander - to wander sinuously back and forth - from this famous river, which Herodotus called ‘The Great Labourer’. The part we are driving on used to be the sea. Like the Tiber, the Meander lays down silt every year, causing the coastline to advance. This was even a problem in ancient times. Ephesus was a port town but is now a few miles from the coast. Just like Ostia Antica.

We pass Miletus, saving it for our return trip, and press on to Didyma, which didn’t used to be by the sea but is now. There is a massive sanctuary to Apollo here complete with tunnels for his priestesses, and the famous Medusa reliefs which you often see in guide books. I discover an interesting tree on the site with fat bright green seed pods. I ask our Turkish guide what it is. She only knows the Turkish name: keçi boynuzu or ‘goats’ horns’. I later find out it is a carob tree. The pods are also called St John’s bread because John the Baptist may have eaten them when he lived in the wilderness. The Greek word 'akridas' either means carob pods or locusts. I think I’d prefer carob pods. They are used as a chocolate substitute today.

After lunch at a place with long tables which caters to coach parties we go on to Miletus. It’s now the hottest part of the day. Even the chickens have enough sense to stay under the shade of the bushy pine trees.

We’re the only party here and I look longingly at the little cafés set out in the shade of a strand of rustling eucalyptus trees. Swallows are swooping over the bleached grasses and the theatre. This one also has lions’ feet decorations, but it has an interesting inscription on one of the seats: ‘For Jews and God-fearers.’ St Paul came here to Miletus to say farewell to his Ephesian friends. They wept when he said they would probably never meet again. Our guide takes us up to a vantage point and I can see there is virtually nothing from the first century still standing. She gives us free time to explore the ruins, but Richard and I head for the outdoor cafés.

Sipping our cold drinks in the breezy shade on a hot afternoon, we look out at the ancient theatre and enjoy the complicated and joyful song of a swallow above us. This is one of my best memories of the whole trip. It’s the bits between the ruins I love most.

When people ask me what I enjoyed most about Turkey, I tell them the hamams and the comfort stops.

Big Ephesus Day

Friday 23 May 2008

Today is our big Ephesus Day. It dawns pearly blue and pink. From the hotel balcony, I watch a white liner cruise languorously into Kusadasi. It is soon followed by another. We were warned that thousands of tourists come off these liners with the explicit purpose of visiting Ephesus.

Ephesus is Turkey’s Pompeii. Twenty years ago you could have the site to yourself. Ten years ago you could still have visited in relative comfort, if you timed it right. Today the big cruise ships come into nearby Kusadasi and the coaches are out of the starting gates at 7.30 to get to the site when it opens at 8.00am. There is very little chance of having the site to yourself.

We get to the site at 8.10 and there are already three parties ahead of us. Unlike Pompeii, Ephesus was not frozen in Flavian times, but kept on growing. I have to be careful not to have Flavia and her friends visit buildings that weren’t there in the first century AD. That means no ‘Library of Celsus’. I can have the theatre, the Harbour Agora and lots of fountains and baths. And I can have the Arcadian Way, leading from the harbour, lit by torches at night.

Visiting the site gives me a feel for how big the mountains are, how flat the plain, where the harbour would have been. I also note the types of trees found there: pines, figs, olives, mulberry, and I think those are oak trees on the hills. A famous Christian hermit lived on acorns not far from here, so there must be some oaks about.

But Ephesus is just another sun-baked collection pretty columns and rubble, only bigger and crowded with tourists. This experience is no longer fun. In fact, when was it ever fun to visit one pile of ruins after another? Few people have the imagination to reconstruct what the original town or city would have looked like. Once you have seen one Greek odeon or Roman theatre, you’ve pretty much seen them all. This is why we latch onto a lizard or a wildflower or an interesting bird so eagerly. It’s a sign of life in what is not much more than a pretty rock quarry.

The part I enjoyed most about Ephesus were the Terrace Houses. Although the frescoes are not as bright and well-preserved as those in Campania, there were some nice ones. I particularly liked a plump pigeon. And on another frescoed wall, someone had scratched a record of the day’s spending:
hazelnuts 10 ½ asses
small figs 2 ½ asses
barley 12 denarii
wood 3 asses
onions 3 asses
caraway ½ ass
entrance to thermal baths 12 asses

Leaving the site we come across what seems at first glance to be a life-sized stuffed camel. A plump lady tourist is attempting to climb onto its back. Then its nostrils flare and several of us jump back in alarm. It's alive! It proves this by peeing into a bucket held by its owner. Hmmn. I wonder what use the Romans might have found for camel urine?

After lunch we visit the site of Meryemana, the site where Mary the mother of Jesus was supposed to have lived out her life. The first time I came here fifteen years ago, I did so on the suggestion of some people we were traveling with. I stepped out of a taxi into the gold-green light of late afternoon my eyes suddenly filled with tears... and I hardly ever cry. The place was soaked in an almost tangible sense of poignancy and beauty. What the Romans called the numinous. I’ve only felt it once or twice before. Whether Mary lived here or not, it is a very spiritual place.

We stop at a Turkish Delight factory, really just another chance to spend money on Turkish goods of all descriptions, but even so are back at the hotel by 5.00pm. I decide to visit the hammam now, rather than break up our free day. Some of the other women on our tour agree to go with me. We get a taxi into town for only 10 Turkish lira, about £1 each. It is Friday evening and the Kaleici Hammam is empty. The domed steam room is far too cool, but the English ladies are happy with this, not being used to intense heat and steam of a proper bath. Our biggest shock is that a burly Turk named Osman is going to give us our body scrubs and bubble massage. Are we prepared for this? We decide what the heck. You only live once. Osman does a great job; he is always discreet and never too rough. We come back feeling squeaky clean and surprisingly virtuous.

Fun Things about Turkey

Saturday 24 May 2008

It’s our last day in Turkey - and my birthday! - and we are enjoying a day off after a grueling schedule of ancient sites. We have been upgraded to the five-star Korumar Hotel overlooking the bay of Kusadasi. Once Kusadasi was a collection of little white houses on a brown hillside overlooking a blue harbour. Now it’s a major centre of tourism, with luxury hotels stretching out along the coast on either side. In the tourist season, between May and October, it is visited by up to seven massive cruise liners every day. They come in at dawn, disgorge tourists on coaches to Ephesus then depart in the late afternoon. A few months ago one got stuck in the harbour and it took the efforts of several hard-working tug-boats to dislodge it. Just as well it wasn’t high season.

Originally I had intended hiring a taxi to retrace Flavia’s route from Halicarnassus to Ephesus, but I am just too tired. Instead I go into town early to take some photos. I get a nice one of a collared dove at an old caravanserai, now a hotel. But it’s too early and only a few shops are open. There are even fewer tourists about, making me easy prey. ‘Hello, Lady,’ say the shopkeepers. ‘Where you from?’ ‘You alone?’ ‘You want jewelry? Turkish delight? Minaret?’

I smile and try to politely rebuff them but they have answers for everything. They employ a very sophisticated blend of ironic honesty and humour, and they capitalize on the British hatred of being impolite.

Shopkeeper 1: ‘Come here, Lady. I need your money.’

Shopkeeper 2: ‘Look, Lady. I sell genuine fake watches.’

Shopkeeper 3: ‘You want carpet? Very nice carpets here.’
Me: ‘I don’t have room.’
Shopkeeper 3: ‘I give you free suitcase.’
Me: ‘I mean I don’t have room in my apartment.’
Shopkeeper 3: ‘I give you new apartment. Free with carpet.’

Shopkeeper 4: ‘Hello, Lady. You want to buy something?’
Me (smiling): ‘Just looking.’
Shopkeeper 4 (smiling): ‘Just selling.’

Shopkeeper 5: ‘Hello, Lady. You alone? You married? You want nice husband?’
Me: ‘No, no, no.’
Shopkeeper 5: ‘Yes, yes, yes.’

Shopkeeper 6: ‘Hello, Lady. You from ship? Hello! Lady! LADY! Why are you being rude to ignore me?’

At least they are not as bad as the Egyptian shopkeepers, who physically grab hold of you and practically wrench the wallet from your hands.

I return to the hotel for their wonderful buffet breakfast and have yogurt with honeycomb so fresh that you can eat every bit of it.

Later Richard and I go back into the old part and he does some water colour sketches as an excuse to sit and have a Turkish coffee (before noon) or an Efes Bira (after noon). Kusadasi is still pretty empty. The six massive cruise boats must have sent all their passengers to Ephesus today. We buy Richard a couple of shirts made from Denizli cotton and I get a small shoulder bag with camels on it.

We walk up to the fort on Pigeon Island and find most of the people from our tour have had the same idea. In the fort there is a crafts market and the skeleton of a whale that once beached itself here.

At a café Richard does a watercolour and I watch a beautiful young Turkish couple eat lunch. They seem very much in love. I ask if I can take a photo and they tell me they are engaged.

I also observe an interesting difference between the Turks and the British. The local cat gang is watching a Turkish family eat. The family is not happy. They hiss at the cats, trying to shoo them away. The handsome fiancé from the next table gets up and chivalrously throws some of his bottled water at the cats. The gang of cats flee. How romantic! If the group having lunch were British they’d be feeding and petting the flea-bitten creatures.

That evening I we have our final dinner on the terrace of the Korumar as the sun sets. The tour group leader has organized a birthday baklava for me and it’s the perfect end to a great trip.

Here are some fun things I learned about Turkey:
1. The toilets have a little spigot at the back so you can wash your bottom after you’ve been...
2. But you have to put used toilet paper in the bin next to the loo. You are not allowed to flush paper down the toilet.
3. The famous Apple Tea (Elma Chai) is just apple juice with hot water added, served in pretty glasses.
4. You get covered with warm puffy bubbles in the hamam (Turkish Baths).
5. In olden times a man in the female part of the hamam would be executed.
6. Today, chances are a burly Turk will give a woman her puffy bubble massage in the hammam!
7. They splash you with lemon cologne on the buses.
8. Children only go to school for half a day, either morning or afternoon.
9. The Turks love a sour cherry drink called 'vishne'; it is delicious
10. Turkish spelling of English words is very efficient. Group is ‘grup’ and toast is ‘tost.’ Who needs those extra vowels anyway? My favourite is ‘oto’ for auto.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Ideas from the Turkey notebook

...

Those who have read From Ostia to Alexandria with Flavia Gemina know I take a notebook with me on all my research trips.

Here are some of the ideas I jotted in my notebook this past week. I probably won’t use all of them, but some will definitely appear in The Prophet from Ephesus

Idea: As Flavia and her friends pass vineyards, they pull grapes right off the vine and eat them: sun-warmed and sweet, with a slight tannic tang.

Idea: Flavia gets an upset tummy from eating salad.

Idea: Jonathan eats cheese with little maggots in it.

Idea: Nubia is always feeding the feral cats even though Flavia warns her they are flea-bitten.

Idea: Lupus likes the salted yogurt drink you can get in Turkey.

Idea: one morning at the hospitium, everyone shares their dreams from the night before.

Idea: on entering a new city, the first thing Flavia does is ask for the public latrines.

Idea: Flavia and her friends eat traditional Turkish breakfast: olives, goat's cheese, hard-boiled egg, sour cherry jam on a sesame-seed ring and apple tea.

Nubia: ‘What is meander?’

Birds I saw: cinnamon-coloured collared doves, swallows, storks, sparrows, magpies, and a little wide-eyed owl on a column.

Plants I saw that would have been there in Roman times: vineyards, olives, carobs, palms, pines, figs, cypress, poplars, pomegranate, peach, ash, oak, birch, beech, white mulberry, plane trees, gorse, and grape arbours. Also white and pink-blossomed oleanders.

Things they have now that they might have had in Roman times: the hamam or Turkish Bath, hot thermal pools, shady colonnaded walkways, carpet workshops, pushy shopkeepers, sesame-seed-covered bread rings, salted yogurt drink, sour cherry juice, clay bird whistle, farmer with three-pronged hoe, worker with scythe, roadside charcoal-sellers, beehives, chickens pecking in dust, cocks crowing, donkeys, goats, sheep, horses, mongrels, feral cats, lizards, geckos, centipedes, snakes, grasshoppers, tortoise crossing the road, a farmer digging in his field...

In the Roman Mysteries Travel Guide, From Ostia to Alexandria with Flavia Gemina, Detective Assignment IX is to find as many smells as possible while travelling in another country. Here are some of the smells I encountered in Turkey:
1. Spicy smell of hot pine trees
2. Sickly-sweet smell of latrines
3. Pungent incense in a church service
4. Steamy sulphur smell of thermal pool
5. Salty sea breeze
6. Banana scent of soapy oil used in the Cagaloglu Hammam
7. Fishy smell of grilled sea-bass served at lunch
8. Pleasant smell of apple peel tea
9. Heady aroma of jasmine
10. Sharp scent of Turkish lemon cologne

Monday, April 07, 2008

Clue for a Mini-Mystery

In March 2008, I gave a talk at the Museum of London (MOL), asking fans to help me find a Roman artefact which could be a clue for a new Mini-Mystery in my forthcoming collection, The Legionary from Londinium and Other Mini-Mysteries.

I particularly asked for artefacts or objects which could stand in for orange seeds in a Roman Mystery adaptation of The Five Orange Pips by Arthur Conan Doyle, a Sherlock Holmes mystery. (see my previous blog, below) I said I would look favourably on objects from the MOL and objects relating to Boudicca's revolt in AD 60.

I already had two ideas of my own in mind. First, pomegranate seeds: because in the myth of Persephone they represent death. Second, copper scales from a soldier's armour currently on display at the MOL. These would have been perfect: light and easy to send, found in Roman Londinium and dating to the revolt of Boudicca. But nobody suggested either pomegranate seeds or scales from a legionary's armour.

However, there were over thirty entries, all of them good some of them very inventive. Where people sent me more than one idea, I chose the one I liked best.

Here were some suggestions for objects which could be substituted for orange pips in my adaptation of the Sherlock Holmes mystery:

Aisling: five grape seeds from grapes used to make wine
Clare: gold coin of Fortuna holding a rudder (like one in the MOL) which was paradoxically cursed!
Clement: blue glass beads, once belonging to Boudicca
Emily: five exotically coloured fish scales from a poisonous African fish that only Nubia recognizes
Otana: five barley grains (barley was sometimes used as a punishment for soldiers)
Sanne: five mosaic pieces, each with a letter which makes a secret message
Sarah: part of a jewelry set, the letters on the jewels spell Boudicca
Sebastian: five human teeth from a murder victim
Vera: a strand of Boudicca's hair which point to her murderer
Victoria: five scraps of papyrus (the mystery comes in the form of a letter from Britannia)

Some ideas for artefacts which could be clues to a different sort of crime included:

Alexia: gladiator's trident, a murder weapon
Alice: leather bikini bottom, found under Titus' mattress, from a murdered acrobat
Connie: iron strigil, used to cut off Lupus' ear from behind
Connor: a Roman spoon with traces of poison on it
David: coin broken in half each half given to twins separated at birth
Elizabeth: green glass bottle, which held deadly poison
Emilie: a statue, when you turn its hand a trap door opens, leading to captured children
Gigi: a goblet, with traces of dried blood showing it was used as a weapon
Harry: ten hairpins, found in the river Thames: murder weapon (ouch!)
Helen: forged Roman coins forging currency was a serious crime in Roman times
Helena: iron brooch of a dog, stolen from the Emperor Titus
Jonathan: jewel, the only clue left from a murder/robbery
Joshua: a mosaic, from a burned villa
Libby: pieces of lead waste (mined in the Mendip Hills) used as a blunt instrument
Roberta: a leather bikini bottoms from the body of a female acrobat who slandered the Emperor
Rosa: iron slave chain and shackle, the murderer strangled someone with it
Susie: brooch of hunting dog, which means 'I'm hunting you, murderer'
Tatiana: theatrical mask, it comes alive in Flavia's nightmare and is Pluto
Theo: a ring, which says 'Curse your riches, Titus'
Zachary: a hammer, dry blood on it, attempted murder weapon for Publius Pollius Felix because he kissed lots of girls

I love all the suggestions, especially five-year-old Rosa's idea of slave shackles used to strangle someone. (It made me think of the first murder in No Country for Old Men.) I also loved Helen's idea about counterfeiting coins, and may use that in a future mystery. And I was very tempted to use Zachary's bloodstained hammer to give that naughty Felix a well-deserved scare!

But in the end I went for Otana's Five Barley Grains. Although barley grains aren't strictly an artefact, there are some ancient Roman barley grains in the Roman exhibition at the MOL. Also, Otana didn't just suggest the barley grains and leave it there. She gave me two pages of back-up research, citing Roman authors, telling me why barley grains would be good. She taught me some things I didn't know about Roman legionaries. For example:

Soldiers who were bad or clumsy at drill were often punished by having their allowance given in barley rather than wheat.
Vegetius, De Re Militari book I

If a cohort exhibited misconduct or cowardice they were often 'decimated'. This means that every tenth man was beaten or killed. The remaining men received rations of barley instead of wheat and were ordered to encamp outside the camp on an unprotected spot... It was a public disgrace for a soldier to receive barley rations.
Polybius, Histories fragment of book VI

Barley bread was much used in earlier days but has been condemned by experience, and barley is now mostly fed to animals.
Pliny the Elder, Nat Hist

Barley Grains could therefore be a perfect substitute for Orange Pips in The Legionary from Londinium. To an ordinary person they would seem harmless and inoffensive, but to a soldier they would mean disgrace and punishment and could easily tie in with Boudicca's revolt. So I am going to use Otana's idea.

Thanks to all the entrants, who will each get a signed copy of The Code of Romulus.

Well done to the three honourable mentions - Rosa, Helen and Zachary - who will each get a signed version of The Legionary from Londinium when it comes out next year.

Contratulations to Otana! She will get a Roman Mysteries tee-shirt, a signed copy of The Legionary from Londinium and of course her idea will appear in the book itself, with a credit to her.

Thanks also to Sandra Hedblad and the MOL for hosting this event.

And thanks to all who attended! Keep reading and writing!

Wednesday, April 02, 2008

How to Write a Mystery

How to Write a Mystery

right: Roman spoons. Could one be a clue to a mystery?

On Sunday 16 March I did a workshop at the Museum of London, asking fans to help me find some clues for my next collection of mini-mysteries. The new collection of Roman Mysteries short stories is going to be called The Legionary from Londinium. At least two stories will be set in Roman Britain. Here is the essence of my talk:

My name is Caroline Lawrence. I am the author of a series of books set in first century Rome. They are history/mystery novels for children aged 8 – 12.

My main character is Flavia Gemina, a highborn Roman girl whose mother died in childbirth and whose father is often away at sea. Flavia is the leader of the group. She is extremely bright and confident. She is a truth-seeker and hates injustice. Flavia is also bossy and impulsive. These two qualities often get her into trouble. But deep down she is kind-hearted and just wants everyone to be happy.

Flavia’s best friend is her slave-girl Nubia. She is the faithful sidekick. Most slaves in Roman times weren’t from Africa, but Nubia is. Whereas Flavia is good with her head, Nubia is good with her heart. She is good at sensing when people are good or evil. She is also very gifted with animals. And she is musical. Like the mythological hero Orpheus, she can sometimes calm wild animals with her music.

Jonathan is Flavia’s Jewish next door neighbour. He is the funny one. He speaks four languages and can recite all the psalms. He is good at hunting and also at inventing things. But Jonathan is a pessimist and often looks on the dark side of life. He also suffers from asthma, which means he can’t always keep up with the others.

Lupus is a mute beggar-boy whom they first see in the necropolis outside the walls of Ostia. He is an orphan, and mute, for his tongue was cut out when he was only six years old. Once he learns to trust the other three, he becomes a valuable ally in their investigations. Lupus is good at being sneaky. He can follow people and eavesdrop on them. He is also good at disguising himself and hiding in small places. He is the wild one.

My original idea was to write a story where the four friends are in Pompeii, trying to solve a mystery, when Vesuvius erupts. Then I decided to write another book first, one which would introduce the characters and their world. And because it was to be a series of mystery stories, I started out The Thieves of Ostia with a mini-mystery at the beginning to introduce Flavia the Detective.

'Flavia Gemina solved her first mystery on the Ides of June in the tenth year of the Emperor Vespasian.'

So begins The Thieves of Ostia. Flavia’s father has lost his precious signet ring. He is a sea captain, and needs it to seal important documents and letters. It also has sentimental value because it was a gift from his dead wife, Flavia’s mother.

Flavia is determined to find his ring. She sees a bird's inky footprint on a sheet of papyrus and then spots a magpie in the fig tree. From these clues, she deduces that the bird is the thief. She devises a clever plan: she will leave something shiny on the desk. If the bird takes the bait, she will follow him to his nest and retrieve any other objects he might have stolen. The magpie takes the silver chain she has left and flies off. Flavia follows him out of the safety of her house into the necropolis, the city of the dead. She almost loses sight of the magpie, but finally sees him popping up out of an old oak tree. Flavia waits for him to fly off again, then scrambles up the tree. Sure enough, there is his stash. And not only does she find her father’s missing signet ring. She finds a beautiful gold earring worth a small fortune.

The real mystery of the book is introduced a few chapters later when Jonathan’s dog Bobas is murdered. Again Flavia must rely on clues like a quartz dice, drops of blood and the portrait of a man etched on a wax tablet. She and her friends interview witnesses and follow culprits. Eventually Flavia uses her deductive powers to solve the case.

In the seven years since The Thieves of Ostia was first published, I have written fourteen more full length mysteries and seven short mysteries. People often ask me how I come up with so many ideas and in such a short time.

I have lots of good writing secrets and am going to share two of my best with you today. And in return, you are going to help me, because I have a problem.

Before I tell you my problem, let me tell you two of my best secrets to writing a good story.

Anybody who has children of reading age - or has taught children - knows they won’t abide a boring plot. That’s why I like children’s books, too. The best ones are lean and fast and carry you breathlessly along.

When I first started writing, I couldn’t create a good plot to save my life. I took writing courses, read books, talked to other writers... Then one day a friend told me about a Hollywood screenwriter named John Trubywho offered an audio course on plot structure. As soon as I heard the first tape of his Story Structure course, I knew it was exactly what I needed. John Truby lists 22 plot steps which can make up a good story and 7 basic steps which make up every good story. Here is my version of his basic steps or ‘plot beats’:

Secret One - Good Plot Structure

1. Problem – your main character (X) has a problem
2. Desire – X wants something which will solve his problem
3. The Opponent – someone else (Y) wants something which will bring him into conflict with X
4. The Plan – X devises a plan to overcome Y, get the object of his desire and solve his problem
5. The Battle – X and Y fight over the desired object
6. Knowledge – whether X wins or loses the battle, he learns something important
7. New Level – X has either solved his problem or is worse off than before, i.e. either happy or sad ending.

This is all very simplified, but you can see how useful and effective such a structure could be. Structure this simple keeps you on track but allows plenty of scope for creativity. And you don’t have to stick to it slavishly. Like a road map, it merely points you in the right direction. It's up to you which detours and side roads you take.

Here is the 7-beat Plot Structure in a detective novel:
1. Problem – someone brings a mystery to the detective
2. Desire – the detective wants to solve the mystery
3. The Opponent – is hidden in a detective story
4. The Plan – investigation and surveillance, looking for clues
5. The Battle – the detective confronts the suspect, or sets a trap
6. Knowledge – the truth is revealed
7. New Level – the detective solves the crime or fails to solve it

In a mystery story, there has usually been a crime and there is a usually hidden opponent. These steps apply to him, too. If you are writing a detective story or mystery, you have to think of them.

Opponent’s plan
1. Someone has a problem
2. They want something
3. Their opponent is usually the law or an authority figure
4. Their plan usually involves breaking the law
5. They commit the crime
6. They usually do not learn anything
7. They are happy if they succeed but…

...something usually goes wrong. Then the steps are:
1. problem - someone is onto them!
2. desire - they have to keep their identity and/or crime hidden
3. opponent - the detective and/or the person who suspects them
4. plan - they often try to eliminate those who suspect them
5. battle - they confront the detective
6. knowledge - they usually learn they haven’t got away with it
7. new level – usually a lower level, as those who break the law should be

So you the author have to come up with the opponent’s original plan and crime and also work out the detective’s plan to uncover the crime and the opponent. Part of the detective’s plan, as I mentioned, is looking for clues which point to the identity of the culprit. The detective looks for objects which are out of place or being used in a strange way. He relies on sight, touch, taste, smell and symmetry, or lack of it.

Some artefacts I’ve used in my books include real Roman artefacts: a signet ring, quartz dice, volcanic rock, oil lamp, wax tablet, sponge stick, strigil and bottle, chariot beaker, lead curse tablets, etc…

Some I haven’t used yet can be seen in the Roman galleries of the Museum of London: key ring, coins, green glass bottle for fish sauce, iron slave shackles, bone pipe, gaming pieces, little votive figures of animals or gods and a leather bikini bottom, perhaps for a girl acrobat!

My other secret for coming up with plot lines or scenes is this: I steal.

Secret Two – Steal ideas

My favourite artist, Pablo Picasso, said ‘Good artists copy. Great artists steal.’

In the beginning of The Thieves of Ostia, I got the idea for the thieving magpie from Postman Pat.

In The Assassins of Rome, I adapted a Garfield cartoon in the opening scene about whether a cup is 'half full or half empty'.

In The Enemies of Jupiter, I got the idea for the culprit from reading an Agatha Christie mystery called The Murder of Roger Ackroyd.

Of course by taking these ideas and setting them in Roman times with Flavia, Jonathan, Nubia and Lupus, they become very different. This is how most writers work, more or less. They take a good idea and adapt it to their own story.

I often steal ideas from the Greek myths and from Latin authors. For that reason some of the things that happen in my books really happened. Like a rabbit facing a lion in the arena. Or the plague and fire in Rome a month or two before the grand opening of the Colosseum.

The trick is never to steal whole chunks of a story, but just the ideas. Then modify the ideas a little to fit your own story. If you steal word for word then you can be sued. But if you steal ideas from lots of different places, and if you tweak those ideas, then you should be safe. Also, you are pretty safe if you steal from ancient authors and mythology.

And now for my problem.

My Problem

My next volume of short stories will be called The Legionary from Londinium. I’ve promised my publishers (and the Museum of London) that I will set some of the stories in Roman Britain. But I have a problem. My books take place in real time over the two and a half years of Titus’s rule, between June of AD 79 and September of AD 81. I have always intended their final case to be about the mysterious death of Titus on 13 September AD 81. Was his death natural? Or was he murdered? If he was murdered, by whom and why?

In July AD 81 my four detectives will be in Turkey, trying to break a slave ring. There is no way they can sail to Britannia to solve some mysteries and be back in Rome by mid September. So how can I have a Roman Mysteries short story set in Britannia?

In one of my other short stories, 'The Case of the Missing Coin', a girl call Pandora brings Flavia a problem. Someone has stolen a gold coin from her small bedroom. But her father won’t allow any visitors. So how can Flavia investigate? Pandora has to describe the room, and Flavia has to imagine herself there. The plan works. Flavia solves the crime at long distance.

I was reading some Sherlock Holmes short stories and in one of them, a young man brings the great detective a case which started in America. But Holmes doesn’t go to America. He doesn’t even leave his study. I thought I could do the same thing. Then I had an even better idea. I would steal the plot of the Sherlock Holmes short story I liked and make Flavia the detective and set it in first century Ostia. The story is called 'The Five Orange Pips'. You can read it in The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes or also online at Project Gutenberg for free.

An orange pip is a seed. I liked the story because a man opens a letter and when five orange seeds fall out he goes pale and recoils in terror. I love the idea of something as harmless as orange pips striking terror into the heart of a grown man. But the Romans didn't really know oranges, so I would have to have something instead of orange pips. I decided to go through, beat by beat, and change the story into a Roman Mystery.

The Five Orange Pips
The Five _________?

A young man, John Openshaw, brings a case to Sherlock Holmes.
A young man, Gaius, brings a case to Flavia Gemina.

John’s father Joseph was a wealthy businessman
Gaius’ father Lucius was a merchant of the equestrian class.

John's uncle Elias emigrated to America and fought in Jackson’s army
Gaius's uncle Marcus was serving in Britannia.

Some years ago Elias – a colonel – suddenly returned to England
Ten years ago Marcus – a legionary – suddenly returned to Rome.

John was living with his uncle and noticed strange behaviour.
Gaius was living with his uncle and noticed strange behaviour.

His uncle rarely went into Horsham but stayed on his estate.
His uncle rarely went into Rome but stayed in his villa.

His uncle played backgammon and draughts with John.
His uncle played board games with Gaius.

He let John deal with the servants in the running of the household.
He let Gaius deal with his slaves in the running of the villa.

His uncle has a room which always remains locked.
His uncle has a strongbox which always remains locked.

One day the uncle gets a letter from India.
One day the uncle gets a letter from Gaul.

The letter has the letters KKK inscribed on it and five orange seeds inside.
The letter has the Greek letter theta scrawled in blue woad and five _________? inside.

These seemingly inoffensive objects terrify his uncle.
These seemingly inoffensive objects terrify his uncle.

etc...

As I write this story, I will use the basic steps but will change the details. The whole style of the story will change. For example, there are two long paragraphs of preamble before Conan Doyle even begins. Then his story starts like this:

'It was in the latter days of September, and the equinoctial gales had set in with exceptional violence. All day the wind had screamed and the rain had beaten against the windows, so that even here in the heart of great, hand- made London we were forced to raise our minds for the instant from the routine of life and to recognize the presence of those great elemental forces which shriek at mankind through the bars of his civilization, like untamed beasts in a cage. As evening drew in, the storm grew higher and louder, and the wind cried and sobbed like a child in the chimney. Sherlock Holmes sat moodily at one side of the fireplace cross-indexing his records of crime, while I at the other was deep in one of Clark Russell's fine sea-stories until the howl of the gale from without seemed to blend with the text, and the splash of the rain to lengthen out into the long swash of the sea waves. My wife was on a visit to her mother's, and for a few days I was a dweller once more in my old quarters at Baker Street.'

I might give my story a much faster, simpler start:

'It was a dark and stormy night in the Roman port of Ostia, and Flavia Gemina was in a bad mood.'

Already I have changed it from 1st person to 3rd person and made it much simpler. I have also ‘played’ with the idea of using Snoopy’s very cliché but effective opening line: ‘It was a dark and stormy night.’ Incidentally, that is the opening line of another one of my favourite childhood books, A Wrinkle in Time by Madeleine L’Engle. But it was originally penned by a Victorian author called Edward Bulwer-Lytton who wrote a book called The Last Days of Pompeii. In fact, the phrase ‘It was a dark and stormy night’ even has its own entry on Wikipedia!

Here is Snoopy's whole novel:

'It Was A Dark And Stormy Night by Snoopy
Part I
It was a dark and stormy night.
Suddenly, a shot rang out!
A door slammed. The maid screamed.
Suddenly, a pirate ship appeared on the horizon!
While millions of people were starving, the king lived in luxury. Meanwhile, on a small farm in Kansas, a boy was growing up.
Part II
A light snow was falling, and the little girl with the tattered shawl had not sold a violet all day.
At that very moment, a young intern at City Hospital was making an important discovery. The mysterious patient in Room 213 had finally awakened. She moaned softly.
Could it be that she was the sister of the boy in Kansas who loved the girl with the tattered shawl who was the daughter of the maid who had escaped from the pirates?
The intern frowned.
"Stampede!" the foreman shouted, and forty thousand head of cattle thundered down on the tiny camp.
The two men rolled on the ground grappling beneath the murderous hooves.
A left and a right. A left. Another left and right. An uppercut to the jaw. The fight was over. And so the ranch was saved.
The young intern sat by himself in one corner of the coffee shop.
He had learned about medicine, but more importantly, he had learned something about life.
THE END'

But let's get back to my problem, and how you can help me.

Your task is to find something which could stand in for the five orange pips. Something from Roman Britain. It can’t be orange pips, because oranges were unknown in Roman times. But it could be another type of food. In the Roman galleries in the Museum of London, you will find green beans, grains, mustard, walnuts, cucumber, plums, figs, hazelnuts, cherries, grapes, shells, fish and chicken. But your clue doesn’t have to be food. It could be anything which has meaning and is light enough to send in a letter. Use your imagination (or steal an idea) to think how.

Also, you could find a different Roman artefact which could be a clue for a completely different Roman Mystery. Just tell me what the artefact is and how it could be a clue to a crime.

[The 17 books in the Roman Mysteries series are perfect for children aged 9+, especially those studying Romans as a topic in Key Stage 2. There are DVDs of some of the books as well as an interactive game.]

Friday, February 08, 2008

Upside Down Egypt



by Caroline Lawrence (author of the Roman Mysteries)

The ancient Romans thought of Egypt quite differently than we do today. (Click the map on the right to get a bigger image of upside down Egypt)

The Delta was the fertile triangular area where the Nile branched out to flow into the sea. When you look at Egypt upside down, this triangle resembles the capital letter delta from the Greek alphabet. (In Roman Egypt most people spoke Greek, the lingua franca of the early Roman Empire.)

To a first century Roman, the Delta was Lower Egypt and the Nile Valley was Upper Egypt. If you went 'upriver' you were travelling south and 'downriver' was north.

To an ancient traveller everything on the right bank travelling upriver was 'Libya' and everything on the left bank (the eastern bank) was 'Arabia'.

The current always flowed downriver, from Aswan to Alexandria, but the wind conveniently blew upriver or south. Wherever a ship is shown in Egyptian wall paintings and carvings – or as a model – you can tell which direction it's travelling. If its sail is up, it's probably travelling upriver. If there is no sail, it's probably going with the current, downriver towards Alexandria.

A 'cataract' is the place where a river changes level. It can be anything from some fast water to an enormous waterfall. Traveling from Alexandria upriver, you could sail for over 700 miles before coming to a cataract. The first cataract marked the southern border of Egypt. It was located at Syene (modern Aswan). Beyond the first cataract was Nubia, the Land of Gold.

P.S. To see 12 Fun Facts I learned at Giza, go HERE. And A Day in Old Cairo caused me to come across a sharp-nosed fish, but miss out on seeing a Seth animal. And we visited a Pharaonic Village, too.

Want to read an exciting mystery set in Roman Egypt? The Scribes from Alexandria is out in a new paperback edition now. You can also get it in Kindle format and as an abridged audiobook! (Perfect for primary schools studying Egypt in Key Stage 2.)

Thursday, January 17, 2008

The Seth Animal

by Caroline Lawrence

I am in Egypt researching book fifteen of my Roman Mysteries seriesThe Scribes from Alexandria. David from Edinburgh (a member of our tour group) is a keen Egyptologist and quite fluent at reading hieroglyphs. I've also been teaching myself the rudiments, with Angela McDonald's excellent book Write Your Own Egyptian Hieroglyphs. She talks about a curious hieroglyph called the Seth Animal:

'One of the most widely used [hieroglyphs]... is one of the most complex to explain. The identity of the so-called Seth animal has puzzled Egyptologists and zoologists for over 150 years. It has the body-shape of a dog, which gives it a muscular physique and clawed paws, and a curved snout. It usually has some sort of weapon for a tail, most commonly an arrow but sometimes a club or forked stick... The Seth animal sign was therefore the perfect determinative for words describing anything strange or disruptive to the natural order of the world, such as storms or malevolent weather.'

All week David and I had been looking for the Seth Animal and on our last day in Alexandria, we found it. It was on a stele of Rameses III which had been found underwater in the harbour. Of course, Pharaonic monuments like this were not made in Alexandria, but transported there in Ptolemaic times.

P.S. If you liked this you might enjoy my blogs about Upside Down Egypt and A Day in Old Cairo.

[Flavia and her friends encounter several different varieties of 'Seth Animal' in The Scribes from Alexandria. It is now available in paperbackKindle and as an abridged audiobook, and is perfect for primary schools studying Egypt in Key Stage 2.]

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

A Day in Old Cairo

It is December 2007. I am researching the 15th book in my Roman Mysteries series, this one will be set in Roman Egypt.

entrance to the souk in Cairo Old Town
Our tour group is planning to visit Tanis, on the eastern Delta, in order to look at some more pyramids and hieroglyphs. They will be driving for nearly three hours there and it will take them longer to get back. They will be in a military convoy. Unable to face another day at a desolate site with nothing but rocks, I ask Richard if he minds a lazy day in Old Cairo. He welcomes the idea of breakfast at 9.00 instead of 6.00am.

I ring Omar, the wonderful taxi driver who took us to the Pharaonic Village and he says he is at our disposal. I find out later that he was suffering from flu but came to our rescue anyway.

We meet in the hotel lobby at 10.00am and Omar drives us to Old Cairo where we see the so-called hanging church, built in the late 3rd century above the Roman Walls. We also descend to a crypt where Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus stayed during their sojourn in Egypt. We wander through the sunny gardens of a Greek monastery and graveyard. It is green and peaceful, with little birds twittering. I have not heard much twittering on this trip. Just the cawing of crows and ravens at the ancient sites.

Cairo rooftops & minaret
We go down a covered street to the synagogue, then re-emerge and find Omar, who's been enjoying a mint tea in the sunshine. I say I would like to see the City of the Dead, the extensive graveyard of Cairo, with its population of poor and homeless, and he takes us to see some Islamic crypts. He helps us scramble on top of the crypt and from here we can see the rooftops of Cairo. It's a perfect day.

Omar teaches us the difference between Fatimid, Ottoman and Mamluk minarets. He takes us to a place where we can see mosques with all three minarets and expects me to take a photo. I wish he'd driven more slowly through some of the old, poor parts of Cairo where you still see boys carrying buckets of hot coals and women balancing trays laden with bread and men smoking their hookahs. What I really want to see is the bazaar.

Gayer-Anderson House, Cairo
Omar agrees to take us to the bazaar but drops us at the Gayer-Anderson House first. He says we'll like it. We do. A British major named Anderson refurbished two Cairo mansions in the 1930's and made them his home. Although he converted some rooms, he left most with their wonderful carved wooden screens. In the major's little private museum I see a replica of my favourite Egyptian cat, now in the British Museum. Now I know why it's called "The Anderson Cat"! There is a secret room behind a cupboard and a wonderful rooftop. Scenes from The Spy Who Loved Me were filmed here, too. (You can see a fun article about movies set in Egypt here.)

Omar in the antiques shop
Omar parks his car and leads us into the bazaar. He knows I like Roman things and takes us to an 800 year old hole-in-the-wall antiquities shop. The owner, a tall, ascetic-looking man -- takes us upstairs to his holy of holies and orders mint tea. We make polite conversation for a while. Then he brings out a small marble head. It looks vaguely Roman, but does not seem to represent anyone in particular. If authentic, the carving round the eyes would suggest a late date: 4th or 5th century AD. Then he makes the mistake of bringing out three more heads, all obviously by the same workshop. If he had produced just the one, I might have been convinced, but now I suspect a con. Anyway, the heads are ugly.

antique sharp-nosed fish?
Something in a glass case does catch my eye, however. It is a small bronze model of an 'oxyrhynchus', a sharp-nosed fish, about as long as my thumb. These were worshipped in the town of Oxyrhynchus, famous for its papyri. Perhaps it was a votive offering at a temple in the Fayum. The dealer says the asking price is £150. 'How old is it?' I ask. '1800 years,' says the dealer. 'How can you tell?' 'By the patina.' Deeply sceptical, I offer £5. But we are so far apart that negotiations cease then and there. Anyway, isn't it illegal to take real antiquities out of the country?

Perfumer in Cairo Souk, 2007
On the way out of the bazaar I buy ten little glass perfume jars for £5, about a dollar each. That's more like it!

Richard buys some spices in the spice market (after waiting for the staff to finish afternoon prayers) and I finish off my shopping with a bottle of lotus oil from an Aladdin's cave perfume shop.

We are back in Giza by 6.00pm, too late for Richard to do a watercolour, but early enough to have a delicious meal at Felfela, an excellent and inexpensive restaurant near the hotel. Three hours later the rest of our group arrives. They are tired and hungry, and even though David spotted a Seth animal, I'm secretly glad we spent the day in Old Cairo.

P.S. If you liked this you might enjoy my blogs about Upside Down Egypt & 12 Fun Facts I learned at the Pyramids. Also A Week on the S.S. Karim.

[I was researching Roman Mystery 15, The Scribes from Alexandria. It is now available in paperbackKindle and as an abridged audiobook, and is perfect for primary schools studying Egypt in Key Stage 2.]

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Ice Cold in Alex

It is Sunday 9 December 2007. My husband Richard and I are on the last leg of our second trip to Egypt, researching The Scribes from Alexandria. This will be one of the few books set in Alexandria of the past without Cleopatra, because my interest is Roman Alexandria. (However, Cleopatra does make a kind of cameo.)

Our tour group is given the choice of a free day or an optional day trip to Alexandria. Well, obviously, it's got to be Alexandria! Only four of us opt for the tour: me, Richard, David and Derek. David is from Edinburgh and Derek from York. They are both easy-going and our small group means we (or rather I) can dictate the places we go and the things we see. I have a checklist of things I'd love to see. Today's guide Walid looks about 18, though he must be in his mid-twenties. He drives a cerise microbus.

Alexandria Toll Gate - coming from the south (Cairo)
A 7.00am start means the road is clear. We pass the Cairo tollbooth an hour after setting out. It is yellow and made to look like a Nile temple with sculptures and hieroglyphics. Advertisements mar this attempt somewhat. After the Cairo tollbooth, the road becomes bumpier and agriculture starts to appear. After 100 kilometers and another hour we reach the Alexandria tollbooth. It is white and blue, (the colours of Greece), with imitation Greek columns and the words ALEXANDRIA in big Greek letters above it. The famous Lake Mareotis has moved, or shrunk. Our guide tells us the water is salt water from the sea. But it gives a good impression of what Alexandria's situation might have looked like. Another half hour or so brings us to the waterfront and the famous 'corniche'.

scene from Ice Cold in Alex
Michael Palin called Alexandria 'Cannes with acne'. We can see traces of its colonial beauty but it is now sadly decrepit and dusty. Still, it has a certain charm helped by perfect weather. After three days of solid rain we have struck gold with a mild blue day. We all talk about the famous scene in a 1958 film Ice Cold in Alex where John Mills and Sylvia Syms and some others have an ice cold beer in Alexandria at the end of a hot and arduous desert adventure. The last scene is famous. The four of them go into a hotel bar and order ice cold beer. For a moment they savour the anticipation and watch moisture condense on the glass. Then they drink it down. According to imdb.com trivia, John Mills was drinking real beer because ginger ale and other substitutes didn't look real enough on film. In the final cut (the 14th take) he actually was quite drunk!

The cerise microbus takes us to the site of the lighthouse first. There is a medieval fort there now. Walid doesn't know much about ancient Alexandria but I try to stay quiet and just take in the surroundings, imagining the great lighthouse rising up above us, like Ostia's only taller and covered in white marble. While we are exploring, some Egyptian girl students (early teens) ask Derek if they can take his photo. We joke afterwards that he should have asked for 'baksheesh'. (Whenever you take someone's picture here in Egypt, they expect you to pay them a tip for the privilege.)

Pompey's Pillar (so-called)
Back in Alexandria proper, the so-called 'Pillar of Pompey' was a pillar re-used by Diocletian in the third century. It may once have been part of the Serapeum, the magnificent and famous annex to the great Museum or "Library" of Alexandria. I think this hill could be the remains of the Paneum, a conical hill which was sacred to the god Pan. We know from ancient writers that you could look out over all of Alexandria from its top.

Next stop are the catacombs of Kom es-Shoqafa – "mound of shards" – which might have been the Alexandrian equivalent of Rome's Mons Testaccio. These Graeco-Romano tombs display a strange mixture of Greek, Roman and Egyptian imagery on them. We go down to a huge catacomb riddled with inner rooms, stone recesses and tunnels. There is even a massive triclinium where the family of the dead person would have a meal in his or her honour.

the "Alexandria Quartet"
Then it's on to the Graeco-Roman theatre. This is very small and I think it's more likely to be a lecture hall. We know that the famous Museum (where the Library was) had lots of famous scholars who gave public talks. Nearby are baths and a 3rd century Roman townhouse called the Villa of the Birds, on account of the pretty mosaics on the floor.

The National Museum in Alexandria is beautifully laid out, with proper lighting and dust-free cases, (unlike it's massive cousin in Cairo). It's also a manageable size. The Pharaonic gallery is downstairs, the Graeco-Roman on the ground floor and Islamic one floor up. Half an hour is long enough for us to look at our preferred sections with a quick glance at one other floor. David raves about the quality of the Pharaonic art downstairs and regrets leaving his camera in the hotel.

Alexandria's eastern harbour
We are delighted to discover that lunch is included in our tour. Our microbus takes us back to the Corniche through dusty roads and crowded traffic to a delightful restaurant called The Fish Market. It has a magnificent view over the brilliant blue sea and reminds me of Sausalito, looking out over the San Francisco Bay, or of Sydney, Australia. For the first time in a week I feel like we are on holiday. The waiter brings a delicious assortment of meze, then a choice of whole grey mullet or tomato pasta for main course.

After lunch we find a decrepit hotel from Britain's colonial period to recreate the famous moment from Ice Cold in Alex. We can't find a bar so we have to make do with a table and we drink Egyptian beer instead of Carlsberg. The hotel staff think we are crazy as Walid and I art direct the scene. (above from left to right: Caroline, Richard, Derek and David at the Windsor Palace Hotel)

the modern Library of Alexandria (in 2007)
Our final stop is the brand new Library of Alexandria. It is on the waterfront, nowhere near the original library, but that doesn't matter. It is really stunning. My favourite bit is a triangular pool at the back which reflects palm trees on the waterfront.


It's 4.30pm and the sun is low in the sky. We start back and stop for a quick 'comfort stop' on our way out of Alexandria. How glad I am that we did. The first part of the trip is quite scary. It's pitch black with no street lights and Egyptian drivers pass on either side. Our driver drives very fast. He's good, but donkey carts and pedestrians wear no lights. What if he hits one? We reach the Cairo toll booth in good time, just over two hours. However, suddenly the road is packed and we aren't moving at all.

recreating the moment from Ice Cold in Alex
This is the Mother of all Traffic Jams. I have never seen anything like it. Three lanes of highway are occupied by five lanes of honking cars, trucks, taxis, cars, minivans and tankers. For most of the trip we are at a standstill or moving at a crawl. Our driver goes on the bumpy shoulder of the highway, when he can move, but another pickup truck is even further to the right on the sandbank. Richard, Derek and David give him the nickname 'Sandbank Sam'.

After an hour or two we see people walking on the dark side of the road. They are easily overtaking us. Trapped by two lanes of traffic on either side, I try not to think about what would happen if I suddenly needed the toilet. I wonder if this is divine punishment for the torture I inflicted on Flavia in The Beggar of Volubilis. I wouldn't be surprised to see a woman giving birth by the side of the road. People are certainly doing other things there. Finally, finally the hotel is in sight. We were hoping to be back by 7.30pm. It is now nearly 10.00pm. It has taken us nearly five hours to get back. I will never complain about London traffic again.

The other members of our group spot us and run out of the hotel restaurant to greet us. They have moved to a big table so that we can join them. None of the four of us feel like eating but we all order beers and for us this is really an Ice Cold in Alex moment. Never has a tall cold beer tasted so good.

[I was researching Roman Mystery 15, The Scribes from Alexandria. It is now available in paperbackKindle and as an abridged audiobook, and is perfect for primary schools studying Egypt in Key Stage 2.]